On the seashore at Asbury Park or Rockaway Beach with a whole fried fish, the wind whipping your hair, sand trapped in your shoes, and The Boss (Bruce Springsteen, that is). Cold beer necessary.

4 cups vegetable oil

1 whole porgy (1 to 2 lbs., gutted and scaled)

1 cup flour

2 T salt

1 t paprika

1 t black pepper

1/2 t granulated garlic

1/4 medium red cabbage (thinly sliced)

1/2 cup mayonnaise

1 chipotle pepper in adobo (minced)

juice of 2 limes

small bunch of cilantro (chopped) 

more salt

more limes

In a deep fryer or a pot large enough to fit the whole fish, heat the oil to 350 degrees. Rinse the fish under cold water and dry well with paper towels. Cut three deep slashes into the fish on both sides. In a plastic bag, add the flour, salt, paprika, black pepper, and garlic. Put the fish in the bag and shake well to coat. Shake off any residual flour. Slip the fish into the oil and fry, turning once, until deep golden brown, about 6 to 8 minutes. Meanwhile, combine cabbage, mayonnaise, chipotle, lime juice, and cilantro in a bowl. Season well with salt and mix well to combine. Remove the fish from the oil and serve immediately with cabbage slaw and cut limes on the side.